Glimpses of Ladakhi Heritage through Couture
By
Padma Yangchan and Jigmet Disket
Birth of Namza
Namza is co-founded by Padma Yangchan and Jigmet Disket. We both hail from Ladakh and this place hold a special place in our heart which led us to our journey together. The rich and diverse culture of Ladakh became our source of inspiration and we finally launched Namza in 2016. Namza draws its inspiration from the rich culture of Ladakh which has been mainly influenced by the Central Asian countries through the Silk Route, which thrived for centuries. Silk Road was a vast trade network generating trade and commerce between many different kingdoms and empires. And its greatest impact of was the exchange of culture. Leh was one of the old trading towns on the Silk Road linking Tibet, Kashmir, and Central Asia. Yakhand being the gateway of Central Asia has had a great impact on Ladakh along with Tibet. This led to a great cultural exchange in Ladakh (along with art, ideas, technology, and religion). This rich history of Ladakh not only serves as a source of inspiration but also gives a sense of purpose to our work at Namza.
The Silk Route Collection - The range of fabrics used in Ladakh varied from locally sourced wool, pashmina to silk brocades with elaborate designs which came in through trades. Our silk route collection highlights the variety of textiles and influences of the silk-route trade, be it our hand-woven woollen jacket or the silk dresses with intricately detailed embroidery and the Logor which is made from heavy silk brocades, Image Credits: Rawky
Wools of Ladakh
Ladakh is one of the richest sources of wool be it Sheep wool, Yak wool, Camel wool, or Pashmina, and has a rich textile history. And the introduction of this wool into our brand only came naturally. Wool weaving has always been an integral part of Ladakhis.
Sheep wool- With the harsh climatic conditions of Ladakh, Nambu (woolen fabric) woven from indigenous sheep wool was one of the most commonly used fabrics for clothing in olden times and is one of the main textiles used to create bespoke pieces at Namza couture. Other types of textiles include Spuruk, a textured sheep wool fabric from the Zanskar region and Tsug den are carpets woven from sheep wool on a backstrap loom mostly by nomads from the Changthang region.
Khulu (Yak wool)- Almost half of the sourced wool is separated as yak hair and the remaining soft fiber is used for making our in-house products be it shawls, stoles, or fabrics. The yak hair is also used to make a range of products such as Challis, Reybo (used as tents by nomads of Changthang). Yak wool is one of the most breathable wool as it can absorb moisture and release it into the air.
Lena (Pashmina)- Comes from the Changthangi goat of the Changthang region and is one of the most prized possession of Ladakh. Namza sources its pashmina from the Dehairing plant of Leh, which is then handed over to the spinners from self-help groups from different villages. These hand-spun pashmina threads are then handwoven into our pashmina products such as shawls, fabrics.
Sheep wool- With the harsh climatic conditions of Ladakh, Nambu (woolen fabric) woven from indigenous sheep wool was one of the most commonly used fabrics for clothing in olden times and is one of the main textiles used to create bespoke pieces at Namza couture. Other types of textiles include Spuruk, a textured sheep wool fabric from the Zanskar region and Tsug den are carpets woven from sheep wool on a backstrap loom mostly by nomads from the Changthang region.
Khulu (Yak wool)- Almost half of the sourced wool is separated as yak hair and the remaining soft fiber is used for making our in-house products be it shawls, stoles, or fabrics. The yak hair is also used to make a range of products such as Challis, Reybo (used as tents by nomads of Changthang). Yak wool is one of the most breathable wool as it can absorb moisture and release it into the air.
Lena (Pashmina)- Comes from the Changthangi goat of the Changthang region and is one of the most prized possession of Ladakh. Namza sources its pashmina from the Dehairing plant of Leh, which is then handed over to the spinners from self-help groups from different villages. These hand-spun pashmina threads are then handwoven into our pashmina products such as shawls, fabrics.
Ladakhi Traditional Attire
Traditional dresses play an important role in representing the cultural identity of a region. Ladakhi dresses have gone through ages of evolution and also influences of Central Asian countries through the silk route. Mogos or Kos in Ladakhi refers to our traditional attire worn by women and Phogos refer to male traditional attire. In earlier times, phogos were not only worn by males but also by unmarried girls in Ladakh. Mogos has a unique feature of hand-made pleats around the waist which gives a voluminous look to the dress and is tied with a sash (skeyraks in ladakhi) around the waist right above the pleats. We pair it with a traditional blouse or tilan, worn inside the mogos, with its visible color and sleeves folded upside over the dress. Namza strives to keep the Himalayan clothing culture alive in terms of designing based on retaining the original traditional elements and has continuously refreshed our collection in many ways by keeping the culture and heritage of Ladakh rooted as well as the impact of the silk route in the region.
Traditional Mogos and Phogos: Men in Ladakh wears full-length dress (Phogos or goncha) which overlaps on the right side with a belt around the waist which is also used for hanging knifes, etc. Women wear the traditional sulma with a blouse (tilan) underneath with collar and sleeves rolling over the dress and a belt around the waist right above the hand-made pleats or sul and paired with a pant underneath.
Image Credit (Left): Gulzar, Image Credit (Right): Stanzin Dukgais.
Image Credit (Left): Gulzar, Image Credit (Right): Stanzin Dukgais.
Empowering the Local Community
The artisans of the Himalayas play an important role in our vast network of the supply chain. They are the pillars that support our handloom empire. Working hand in hand with them is the way forward. Having said that, we at Namza have been working with the artisans, especially our weavers to revive the old textiles as well as modify them to make them more suitable for today's time as well as the climate. These weavers have also excelled in different weaving techniques, which earlier used to be limited to a specific design pattern. In olden times, Nambu was thick and heavy in weight and more favourable for the harsh climatic conditions in those times. A regular Nambu fabric is about 12 to 14 inches in width but we have been able to introduce Nambu fabrics which are double in width and saves us a lot of time and fabric. Besides woollen fabrics, we are consistently working with the artisans to create finer and luxurious shawls, be it sheep wool, yak wool, camel wool, or Pashmina.
Ensuring Sustenance with Sustainability
Namza has been constantly making an effort to become a conscious label. Although fashion contributes to a major global economy, it is also a resource-intensive industry. We all must work towards a sustainable fashion industry and reduce our carbon footprints. One of the essential parts of becoming sustainable is ensuring that the people in the supply chain are also benefitted. Namza is one of the few sustainable designer labels to develop a direct relationship with the source itself, with our in-house handloom production as well as community-based which connects a vast network of artisans of Ladakh. We also got the opportunity to represent our AW19 collection at London Fashion Week in 2019 and the collection was inspired by the art and culture of Ladakh, featured on our in-house handcrafted fabrics, thus promoting Indian textiles and sustainability.
Rooted in Heritage
Namza creates traditional Ladakhi clothing by presenting its silhouette through a more modern and easy-to-wear design. Every region has its traditional costumes that go back thousands of years, and designers often get inspired by their proud heritage, yet also want to modernize and make it wearable in today's time. It’s interesting to explore and know more about your own culture. There is a continuous need to be versatile and be able to understand the choices of local people as well. And while working on it you always tend to bring your aesthetics to the table. Being a ladakhi, I (Padma) always get some element in a very subtle way acknowledging my people who are as proud as anyone could be for their rich culture and heritage while balancing traditions with modernity. Namza creates each piece with great sincerity and attention to detail. The major steps involved in making a piece are focusing on the aesthetics of the design as well as the smooth finishes of the end products. Namza has a unique blend of colors and fabrics, fusion of different patchwork, embroideries, and blending of the traditional silhouette with a contemporary twist while keeping the essence of Ladakh alive in every garment.
Nambu Crane Jacket: Bringing our traditional textile ‘nambu’ to the main fashion streamline, the crane symbolizes peace and prosperity in Buddhism. Image Credit: Kamal Rana
Gyamo e Zimskhang: This collection is inspired by the rich heritage of Ladakh, be it our culture, art, or music which has stood the test of time.Image Credit: Sameer
Gyamo e Zimskhang: This collection is inspired by the rich heritage of Ladakh, be it our culture, art, or music which has stood the test of time.Image Credit: Sameer
Road Ahead
For the upcoming years, our key focus will be on creating more new and exclusive designs. We are also planning to expand to other parts of the country. Namza also dreams of an empire of ladakhi jewellery designing, which is such an integral part of a wedding in every culture. And no one is working in this field as of now in Ladakh.
25/07/2021
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Jigmet Disket
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She is responsible for the natural dyeing and weaving of the natural fibers used at Namza. Graduated in Biotechnology from GGS IP University, Delhi. Interned at Defense Research Development Organization, Leh, and studied the effects of high altitude on growth and pigmentation of floral diversity of Ladakh. The study of floral diversity intrigued my interest in natural dyeing and its application.
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Padma Yangchan
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She is a graduate of the prestigious LSR college of Delhi University and is the ingenious mind behind Namza Couture. Following her graduation, she worked in design houses in Mumbai and Delhi before she finally headed back home and committed herself to be an advocate of Ladakhi heritage and culture through her designs and garments. As a proponent of Ladakhi textiles, Padma personally and meticulously researches and experiments the Ladakhi textiles before translating them into couture pieces. Her intention to champion the Ladakhi culture was recognized when the Padma had a grand outing at the London Fashion Week in 2019 which placed Namza on the International Fashion map. She believes in preserving and taking the age-told techniques into the future.
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